What is ultrasonic bark control?

What is ultrasonic bark control?

So, what exactly is an ultrasonic bark control system, and is it safe?

I figured these gadgets were complicated shock collars when I first heard the term “ultrasonic.” This method of bark control, on the other hand, is quite simple and differs drastically from using a shock collar.

The way ultrasonic bark gadgets operate is that when your dog barks, the device detects it and immediately generates a high-pitched tone to distract your dog and stop them from barking.

The pitch of the tone is only heard by your dog because his hearing is significantly better than human hearing. It’s also quite inconvenient for them.

They cease barking, and the device stops producing noise. Your dog will eventually learn that barking is associated with an unpleasant high-pitched tone, and will only bark when absolutely necessary.



Is it safe to use ultrasonic bark control?

Whether or not these products are safe for pets is a matter of debate. Reputable pet businesses, such as PetSafe, have conducted safety testing on a range of dogs to ensure that their products are suitable for all canines.

There is a range of ultrasonic gadgets on the market, and you’ll want to choose the ideal one for your dog; after all, you’re the one who knows him best!


Ultrasonic device types

Indoor gadgets

Indoor gadgets are small to medium-sized teardrops or rectangular-shaped devices designed to prevent your indoor dog from barking.


They come in a number of sizes, shapes, and colors, so you should be able to conceal the device with ease if you have a nosy dog or want to blend it in with your décor.

Each gadget has its own range, which specifies how far the dog can be from the device before it is triggered.

These devices are usually programmed to activate automatically when a dog comes within range, but some include a manual feature that gives you additional control.

Indoor ultrasonic devices are similarly powered by batteries, and how long they last depend on how frequently your dog barks.

You should also switch the device off when not in use to save battery and prevent your dog from becoming acclimated to the tone.


Keep in mind that if your excessive barker has free rein of the house, you may need more than one gadget because ultrasonic sound cannot travel through walls.

You should also read the setup instructions to ensure that the gadget functions properly.

Handheld gadgets

Some indoor devices that are small enough to fit in your hand will also be called “handheld” devices. But there are also ultrasonic devices that can stop a dog from barking that fit in the palm of your hand.

The goal of these smaller devices is to stop your dog from barking anytime, anywhere. Handheld devices usually come with a lanyard or strap that you can tie around your arm to keep the device in place. This makes it easy to take them on walks or to the park.


Unlike ultrasonic devices used indoors, handheld devices are controlled by hand and can be turned on with the click of a button.


Like indoor devices, these devices have different ranges, so you’ll need to think about what you’ll be doing or where you’ll be using it to make sure it works for your dog.


Ultrasonic Collars

Ultrasonic bark collars are like both citronella and shock collars in that they can be worn and are activated when your dog barks.

But bark collars don’t shock or spray the dog. Instead, they make a high-pitched noise like other ultrasonic devices. A small ultrasonic box that runs on batteries can be attached to your dog’s collar, or you can buy a collar that is already put together and sized for your dog.

Ultrasonic collars can be used for both positive and negative reinforcement, which is interesting.

So, if you want to encourage good behaviors like “sit,” you can give your dog a positive tone, like a clicker, to let them know they’re doing the right thing.


Ultrasonic collars are much less obvious than other collars on the market because only your dog can hear the noise.

But if you are close to other dogs, they will be able to hear the high-pitched tone, too.

This is something you should think about if you take your dog to the park or train it with other dogs.

Even though you may be telling your dog to stop doing something bad, you may be waking up another dog nearby.


Outdoor devices

During the time when my dog had separation anxiety, my neighbors would have bought an ultrasonic outdoor device if they had known about them.

At first glance, outdoor ultrasonic devices look like cute little yard decorations or birdhouses, so your dog won’t know that they actually make an ultrasonic sound.

These devices work the same way as their indoor counterparts, but they usually have a longer range and are built to last in the weather.


These happen more often when neighbors can’t stop their neighbors’ dogs from barking or when dogs are left outside for a long time.

Similar to ultrasonic collars, your dog or your neighbor’s dog might not be the only pet that hears the high-pitched tone, so it’s important to be careful if you choose this option.

How well do ultrasonic devices work?

The answer to this question is hard to give because it depends on the dog.

However, most dogs will stop barking or bark less when an ultrasonic device is used.

This study by showed that all of the dogs in their test group, whose weights ranged from 8 to 110 pounds, stopped barking when they wore an ultrasonic collar.

Ultrasonic Bark Control and Electric Fences Don’t Mix

Dogs need to be trained over and over again if they are to learn new behaviors, tricks, or rules. ultrasonic bark control products use a simple but effective ultrasonic sound frequency to teach dogs not to bark and stop other bad habits.

But what happens when similar tones are used for other types of training, like invisible fences? Good question. We don’t think it’s a good idea to use ultrasonic bark control products with invisible fences (especially not shock fences).

If you do this, the dog will be confused, and you and your dog will both be very upset.


This is why

There are many kinds of electric or invisible fences, but the idea behind them is the same. When the dog is getting close to the fence line, they usually use an ultrasonic or audible tone to warn the dog. If they reach this limit or go past it, they will be shocked until they turn around and go back. They learn from the warning tone that if they don’t want to get shocked, they need to stay in the right area.

Since both of these products use the same style of training, using them in combination would not be suitable. This will go for any kind of bark control product – shock or no-shock.

training collar for dogs

training collar for dogs

Under the umbrella term training collar for dogs there are a number of different names. Choke collars, choke chains, training collars, corrections collars, and slip collars are among them. All of these training collars are utilized by both professional and amateur trainers.

If used correctly, training collars are effective instruments. When utilizing training collars, keep the following in mind:

Is it appropriate?

The collar is easy to use and more safer for the dog when it is properly fitted. It’s simple to figure out if the training collar is the proper size. The optimal training collar should fit snugly over the dog’s head while being comfortable.

It is critical that the training collar does not fit too snugly, but neither should it be overly slack. It will be difficult to put on and take off a training collar that is excessively tight.

A training collar that is excessively loose, on the other hand, may fall off the dog’s head when it lowers its head.

In addition, the collar should not be overly lengthy.

It is preferable to use a tape measure to measure the dog’s neck, then add 2 to 3 inches to that amount.

If your dog’s neck is 12 inches in circumference, you’ll need a training collar that is 14 inches long.

In general, chain slip collars are sized in two-inch increments.

* Has it been installed properly? It will be more effective and less harmful if you put it on correctly.

* Is it being utilized properly? Use the collar only as a last resort. Instead, use it as a firm reminder to the dog about their actions. Instead of steady pressure, use brief abrupt jerks of the collar. Constant pressure on the dog could be harmful.

* Is the weight appropriate for your dog? The size of the links, in addition to the weight, should be appropriate for the size and weight of your dog.

* Is the collar in the proper position? It is critical to properly secure the dog’s collar. The section of the chain that connects to the leash should be on the top of the dog’s neck when fitting a training collar. The collar releases the moment the leash is relaxed in this configuration. Training collars operate by rapidly tightening and loosening the collar. The first portion of the repair involves tightening the collar, while the second part involves loosening it.

The collar can still be made tight if the part of the training collar that is attached to the leash is not on the top of the dog’s neck, but it will not easily release back to a loose position.

This persistent pressure on the dog’s neck causes a counter-response, and the dog will quickly learn to pull and strain against the leash.

Make sure you get a collar that is well-made and durable.

This is a critical step in ensuring your and your dog’s safety.

What happens if the collar snaps?

First and foremost, relax! For the first few minutes, your dog will be completely unaware that they have gained unexpected freedom. You can generally regain control of the dog if you continue to act as if the collar is still on.

If your collar breaks, you can generally build a “slip lead” to replace it quickly.

Simply take the leash’s snap and thread it through the handle, then slip the loop over the dog’s head. Although not perfect, it does solve the current issue.

constant dog barking nuisance

constant dog barking nuisance:

You’ve read everything there is to know about the dog barking. Nothing works after you’ve tried rewards, yelling, and demands. There are a few things you can try before resigning yourself to a life of incessant barking.

There are numerous reasons why dogs bark. It could be sought attention or directed at a stranger if they are feeling threatened.

A humane bark collar will be your best bet in any of these situations to keep the dog from barking excessively.

A dog barking collar can help if your dog starts to irritate neighbors or scare children with his barking.


Even after extensive training, some dogs will continue to bark excessively. If this is the case, a compassionate training collar is recommended.

Your dog will learn not to bark every second with our ultrasonic no-shock collars

and you can feel good about employing a friendly solution that avoids cruelty and won’t harm your pet.

3 Bark Collar Myths

Myth #1: Barking collars for dogs are dangerous.

Because traditional “shock” collars are more common in society, one misperception regarding our humane bark control collars is that they are also dangerous.

Many dog owners are concerned that ultrasonic or vibration stimulation will be too much for their dogs to handle, or worse, that it may damage them. This, however, is a misconception.

Good Life has gone to great efforts to ensure that our dog barking collars are completely safe for both pets and their owners.

We devised training collars that enable you to take control of your dog’s poor behavior with the push of a button — without causing any pain or harm — as part of our research and development process.

Some of our newest bark control solutions include Positive Pet™ (a remote-only vibration collar), BarkWise™ Complete (an automatic no-shock training collar), and OnGuard™(a handheld ultrasonic trainer).

Myth #2: A bark collar must be worn at all times.

Any training collar can be hazardous to your dog if worn for longer than the prescribed period of time due to the risk of pressure necrosis.

Pressure necrosis occurs when the collar rubs against the dog’s neck for a lengthy period of time, causing sores.


To avoid this, the dog’s collar must fit comfortably around his neck and be rotated frequently to avoid uncomfortable regions.

Continuous pressure from any contact points can restrict blood flow to the tissue beneath a bark collar, causing it to deteriorate.

If the collar is too loose, the dog may not be able to feel the vibrations on his skin, resulting in inconsistent training.

In all cases, the dog owner must ensure that the collar is properly set

and that the collar is removed if it is worn for longer than the prescribed time,

which is typically 8 to 10 hours per day.

Our bark control collars use rechargeable batteries that should be charged at night anyway, so the dog will get a vacation from training and wearing the collar.

To prevent bacteria from growing, wipe the contact sites of a collar with rubbing alcohol every 2-3 days.

Myth #3: Dog barking collars will stop your dog from barking in the future.

The ultimate goal is to avoid unnecessary nuisance barking, not to stop the dog from barking all of the time.

You must teach your dog when it is acceptable to bark and when it is not.

There is no way to completely eliminate all barking because some barking is completely natural and anticipated in certain situations.

When serious threats are discovered, or the owner is in distress, for example.

You can successfully reduce excessive barking with proper training, but your dog can still bark if he has to.


puppy training basics

puppy training basics


In this video, Blake brings you along as he works with a puppy and her humans for the very first time.

This inside look at his private session covers both hands-on and concepts important to the long-term success of the dog and owners together as a team.

consider the dog puppy training basics






beethoven dog breed

beethoven dog breed

beethoven dog breed is a St. Bernard

Beethoven (from the film series of the same name) Beethoven is a 1992 comedy film about a lovable but troublesome 200-pound (90 kg) longhaired St. Bernard

Saint Bernards’ History and Country of Origin

The Tibetan mastiffs were brought to the Alps by the Romans in 1000 AD, and the Saint Bernard is a descendant of them. St. Bernard de Menthon’s Swiss monks crossed mastiffs with Great Danes and Great Pyrenees.

Its usage as a rescue dog was well established by the middle of the 1600s.

The St. Bernards has rescued over 2,000 individuals.

The dogs operate in groups to find and locate missing or injured travelers, lick them to stimulate circulation, and then sleep next to them to provide warmth.

A different dog returns with a human rescue squad and takes them back to the traveler and the other dog (s).

St. Bernard’s sense of smell is so acute that he can locate a person even if they are buried beneath several feet of snow.


Because the long-haired St. Bernard’s long hair collects icicles, the short-haired variety is more commonly used for search and rescue.


The Dog’s General Appearance

The St. Bernard is a huge, muscular dog with a colossal head and similarly colossal paws. His toes are very arched, which allows him to walk properly on the snow and ice. His weight and size should be in proportion. The muzzle of a St. Bernard is small, and his ears are positioned high and hang down. The dark brown eyes are widely set due to the wideness of the nose. “Just relax; I’ve got things under control,” he says, his face radiating intelligence, wisdom, and the capacity to deal with difficult situations.


The Saint Bernard’s legs are well-muscled on all four sides. He has a somewhat deep chest that does not extend below his elbows. When you combine that with a broad back and broad, powerful shoulders, you’ve got yourself a powerhouse of a dog. His tail is very broad and robust, as it aids in propelling and balancing him while climbing.


  • Color of the Coat


White is the base coat color, although it also comes in tan, crimson, mahogany, brindle, and black. Black shadings are common on the face and ears.


  • Type of Coat


St. Bernards come in two coat types: rough (long-haired) and smooth (smooth) (Short-haired). Both coats are warm and substantial. The coat of the short-haired or smooth-coated St. Bernard lays flat against his body. The tail appears bushy, and the thighs are slightly bushy. The rough or long-haired coat is slightly wavy and lengthier than the smooth coat. The legs and tail have feathering because of the rough coat.


  • Height


Males must be at least 27.5 inches tall.

Females must be at least 25.5 inches tall.


As long as the dog’s weight is proportional to his height, the taller he is, the more he is valued.


  • Weight


110-200 lbs.


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The Dog’s Personality

The Saint Bernard is a calm, kind dog that is sensitive to the needs and desires of others. He is devoted and obedient, eager to please.


The St. Bernard is an excellent family dog.

He is a child-friendly person. His instincts serve as a natural watchdog, alerting him to the presence of anything or anyone, but he is not violent. Most would-be intruders would be deterred by his stature.

He is a “couch potato,” but when he is pushed, he has a lot of energy and stamina.


As a puppy, make sure the St. Bernard gets plenty of socializing. Ascertain that he meets a diverse range of individuals and is exposed to a diverse range of experiences and sounds.


The St. Bernard is a highly clever dog who learns quickly and easily. They should begin obedience training as soon as possible because they grow so enormous.

Keep in mind that a rambunctious 175-pound dog on a leash can cause a slew of issues, especially in public.

As the owner, be certain that you have authority over the dog and that the dog does not have power over you from the start.


Saint Bernards have excellent traction in snow and ice. Their keen sense of smell allows them to locate individuals buried beneath many feet of snow. They also have a sixth instinct when it comes to impending danger, such as storms or avalanches.


St. Bernards drool after eating or drinking because they have jowls.


Is your personality more suited to an indoor or outdoor lifestyle?


Saint Bernards enjoy being outside, but they also require time with their family. They like chilly regions because of their thick coats.

They can’t stand hot rooms, automobiles, or even hot weather. If they live in an area with hot summers, air conditioning is a necessity.


Are they appropriate for families with children?


Children are adored by St. Bernards. They make excellent family pets because of their tenderness and sensitivity to people.

When they are young, they can be rambunctious and, due to their size, can knock children down, but they would never harm a family member or friend.

target dog breed

target dog breed:

Those who want to know the target dog breed that appears in the target advertising.

English bull terrier

Bullseye first appeared in Target’s renowned 1999 ad campaign “Sign of the Times,” which featured a white English bull terrier with the Target logo over his left eye, set to a modified version of Petula Clark’s 1960s pop song “A Sign of the Times.”

The Bull Terrier was developed to combine the terrier’s spirit and agility with the Bulldog’s courage and tenacity. The gentry kept white-coated Bull Terriers as pets, which became known as ‘White Cavaliers.’

The Dog’s General Appearance

The Bull Terrier is a powerful, well-built dog that is active and determined. His head is his most distinguishing characteristic, with an almost flat top, a lengthy slope from the forehead to the end of the nose, and enormous, erect ears.

His eyes are deep and dark, with a piercing gleam in them.

They are tiny and positioned obliquely.

His black nose is pointing down.


The Bull Terrier’s hips and shoulders are broad and powerful, and his hips and shoulders are widely set.

His chest is big and deep. His body is slender, with short, powerful legs.

To maintain his body mass, the Bull Terrier’s straight legs are set far apart.

The Bull Terrier’s tail is short and pointed, and it is carried horizontally.


  • Color of the Coat

The Bull Terrier’s coat color can be entirely white with no other color except white markings on the head, or any color other than white with white markings. Black, brindle, red, fawn, and tri-color are the most likely colors.


  • Type of Coat


The coat of the Bull Terrier is short, tight, rigid to the touch, and gleaming.


  • 20 – 24 inches tall


  • Weight range: 45-80 pounds

Bull Terrier Dog Temperament

If care is taken to find a competent breeder, the Bull Terrier can make an excellent family pet. The Bull Terrier is a brave, happy-go-lucky, energetic, and entertaining dog. He thrives on company and attention. And he’s full of life, always wanting to be in the thick of things.


Bull Terriers may be docile and pleasant if properly socialized and trained. They are stubborn and difficult to teach.

You must carefully examine whether you are competent of being his pack leader for the rest of your life, as he needs someone who has a mental understanding of the pack and how to lead it.

He must also be raised in a household where his children do not tease him and have high regard for him and his belongings.


Bull Terriers are notorious for being possessive and protective of their possessions.

They usually don’t get along with other animals.

They make excellent watchdogs.


Because of the breed’s dominant and protective attitude, they should never be left unattended in the presence of canines they don’t know — most are dog hostile.

In training, Bull Terriers are too strong for children or older persons to manage.


Better suited to an indoor or outdoor lifestyle?


Bull Terriers must be kept inside. They suffer from a variety of allergies and skin conditions.

They’ll be fine in an apartment, but they’re quite energetic and require extensive walks on a daily basis.

If Bull Terriers are not adequately exercised, they will become lethargic and overweight. A tiny, securely gated yard is really beneficial.


Are they appropriate for families with children?


Because Bull Terriers are not particularly tolerant, they are not suggested for homes with children.

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why dogs scratch the floor before lying down

why dogs scratch the floor before lying down

Is this the end of a long and tiring day, or what?

Then, when it’s time to rest or sleep, we can just fall asleep on our beds or couches.

Our dogs, on the other hand, might not just lay down in their bed and fall asleep.

They might have to get ready first. However, you may have noticed how the process of getting your dog to lay down takes some time.

A lot of people who have dogs do this before they go to bed. If you’re wondering if this is normal, don’t worry.

It is, and it’s something they’ve been doing for a long time.

Here are three things your dog does before going to sleep and why.

Scratching The Ground:

Another thing you may have observed your dog doing is scratching the ground before going to bed.

And, while it may appear that its sole aim is to scratch up your floors, it’s actually another innately inherited characteristic passed down from dogs’ non-domesticated forefathers.

Dogs, like wolves, have pheromone-secreting scent glands in the bottoms of their paws and between their toes.

Scratching the ground communicates to other canines or animals that this is their nest or resting area, spreading their smell and marking their territory.

Scratching the floor was also a technique for them to make a shallow nest in which they could keep their body heat if they were sleeping outside in the cold.

Circling their bed:

You may have noticed your dog circling their bed before falling asleep in it.

This, according to dog behaviorists, was passed down from wolf forebears.

Wolves used to perform the same process before going to sleep in the wild, which is thought to be a self-preservation mechanism to ward off or spot any threats.

Wolves are thought to have slept with their noses to the wind in order to detect any dangerous scents in the air, according to wildlife enthusiasts.

Circling the area where they slept allowed them to detect the direction of the wind at the time and properly position themselves before sleeping.

Another reason they did this was to produce a level, pleasant surface by stamping down the grass, leaves, or snow before eventually resting.


Some dog breeds may dig at their bed or try to dig a hole in the yard for a place to sleep, though this is less frequent or common.

On a hot day in the yard, you could notice them doing this.

Dogs pant and sweat via their paws when they become overheated. They have a more difficult time cooling off than humans, which is why they dig.


Dogs will seek out a cool spot to rest and, when given the chance.


You may see your dog performing any of these routines, particularly if they receive a new bed or a freshly washed blanket from the laundry. This is simply because they want to imbue it with their fragrance and claim it as their own.


Does your dog go through any of these rituals before he or she lays down?

How to Teach Your Dog the Sit Command


The command “sit” could be one of the most useful commands you ever teach your dog.

A badly trained dog reflects poorly on you, the pet owner, and how much you care for your dog.

In reality, an untrained dog causes annoyance to its owner, making both the dog and the owner unhappy.

With a little work on your part, you can teach your dog to sit, whether it’s a puppy or an adult dog.

Have you avoided it because you believe your dog would never be able to learn a new ‘trick’?

Don’t procrastinate any longer. Begin teaching your dog to sit right now.

To train your dog to sit, try any of the following suggestions:

You’ll need some treats; sadly, this is always the most effective technique of getting a dog to perform what you want! You can use cookies, chewy treats, or household things if you know your dog likes them.

The basic goal is to train your dog to sit when you say “sit.”

One technique to gradually get your dog used to the word is to mention it when the dog is already seated.

When the dog sits, you say “sit” and reward them.

You’ll need to put this into practice every day by completing the following:

– Make a phone call to your dog and give them the treat. Allow them to initially sniff the treat and get thrilled!

– Slowly raise the treat above the dog’s head. The dog will move into a sitting position on its own.

– It’s critical that the dog associates sitting with the reward, the praise, and the action of sitting. Make an effort to get your timing right.

– Continue to bribe the dog, gradually reducing the size of the treat. Continue to praise the dog with zeal.

– Do this exercise several times every day. Don’t go overboard; you want your pet to enjoy it.

– Practice around mealtimes, when your dog is hungry, to make him more interested in the treats.

– Keep the rewards close by and don’t mess with them; the treat must be given while the dog is seated.

– Do not push your dog’s bottom to the ground; this will not work since your dog will link sitting with having his bottom pushed to the ground. If this isn’t working, consider enrolling in obedience courses with other dogs.

– Finish each workout on a good note.

Using these positive reinforcement tactics to teach your dog to sit will enhance your bond.

Consider it well spent time.

It should be quite simple to teach your dog the other basic commands once you have learned the fundamental command ‘sit.’

Some of the most useful orders are “sit-stay,” “down,” “heel,”

In the same way, use the snacks. Training your dog is a lifelong endeavor.

You should continue to praise your dog on a frequent basis and never equate the dog’s response to your instruction with hostility.

Make the most of every new opportunity to train or practice what you’ve learned.

The most crucial aspect of learning to sit is that the dog sits in a variety of situations.

Sitting in unfamiliar situations, with other dogs, with new people, when the doorbell rings, and so on.

One of the most important things you can do for your dog is to properly train it.

You will have an obedient dog in addition to a well-behaved dog.

Dogs belong to a pack, and you are the pack leader.

If your dog understands his or her place in the pack, he or she will be better adjusted and happier.

Your dog is eager to please you by nature.

Start teaching your puppy to sit today and become a terrific pack leader!

how to overcome food possessiveness

Possessiveness with food in dog training

Food is a dog’s primary priority, despite what we might think, consequently, the first step to successful training is to establish yourself as the leader.

This can be accomplished by showing him that he can only have his food at your discretion and order.

Give him his food, let him eat for a few seconds, and then take away his bowl.

Each time you do so, make an appropriate sound, such as “leave” or “stop,” and hold the bowl for a few seconds.

If he didn’t exhibit any aggression when you were removing the bowl, remind him how ‘good boy’ he was, hand it back to him and let him continue eating.

For a few days, repeat two or three times at each meal, then once or twice a week for a few weeks.

Some dogs are never possessive with their food, but if your dog came from a large litter, he may have found that the only way to get his part of the food was to threaten his siblings.

He may well attempt it with you if he finds that this activity yielded the desired outcome (more food).

If you don’t address this issue early on, your possessiveness will spread to other objects, such as bones, toys, furniture, and possibly even other family members.

Don’t feed him food if you don’t want him to be aggressive with it!

This means hand-feeding him for a few of weeks. P

repare his food as usual in the bowl, but don’t place it on the floor for him.

Feed him a handful of food at a time.

He automatically wants to guard the bowl of food on the floor, thus if he is not put in this situation of needing to guard, he will not bite!

If your dog is dominant in other areas, hand feeding is also beneficial.

It makes him entirely dependent on you for the most crucial aspect of his life, his food, and it strengthens your status as pack leader because he only eats from you and not from the bowl.

You can also take advantage of this moment of hand-feeding by having him carry out some tiny orders from you for some of the food.

Get him to sit before the first handful, or lie down before the second, and so on.

Don’t make him rush around looking for food because it can upset his stomach.

After a few weeks on this routine, you’ll notice a shift in his attitude toward possessions.

You can then try feeding him in a bowl again, and if no signs of hostility appear, you can continue to feed him regularly.

Do not provide bones or toys to food-obsessed dogs because they will guard them in the same way they guard their meals.

Once the food issue has been resolved, you can introduce a toy, but make sure the dog understands that it is his toy and that he is only permitted to play with it with you, and that when the game is over, you must take control of the toy.

Is Your Dog Potty Trained?

Is Your Dog Fully Potty Trained?

House Training a puppy or adult Dog is such an essential issue for its owner that even a single exclusive tip turns out to be extremely helpful. so is your dog potty trained

The first step in making your Dog fit for polite company would be to potty train him. Some see this training as a hassle and some as a challenge.

For me, it is part of bringing up a pet.

Click here to subscribe to a FREE course on housetraining puppies and dogs.

There are a few things you need to know before you actually start potty training a puppy or adult Dog.

I enumerate these below:

  • You need to understand your dog’s body language. Watch for signs that will indicate to you when your pet wants to eliminate.
  • If you own puppies, remember that they need to go potty at fairly frequent intervals – as soon as they wake up, after short naps, after play-time, after meals, before and after being crated and finally, before retiring for the night.
  • Take your Dog for walks at the time that he usually does his potty. Take him out to the yard and then to the same place there every time he needs to answer nature’s call.
  • Praise your Dog after he eliminates at the right place. Some Dog owners even give treats to their dogs. But remember to do this every time he does it right. He will relate the rewards to his having “done it right” and zero in on the spot where you want him to defecate regularly.
  • With time, you can try signal training. This is so that you know when your doggie wants to go. You can hang a bell at his level near the door and teach him to push it with his nose or pat it with his paw on his way out.
  • Until your Dog has been fully potty trained keep him under strict vigilance. Do not let him roam around the house freely.
  • Use a crate. A crate-trained Dog is usually very happy to get his own den. The advantage of crates is that dogs do not soil the place where they sleep. So, he will naturally not eliminate inside the crate.
  • If you have a small dog and if you live in a high-rise building or in a place that does not have a proper backyard, you can try litter pan training. What you do is create a space for your pet to eliminate in your house itself.

  • Use positive reinforcements while housebreaking puppies or adult dogs. Do not scold or hit him as you will gain nothing by doing that. He will only associate punishment with your return from outside. If you catch him in the act, a stern ‘NO’ or ‘FREEZE’ will do. It will startle the Dog enough for him to stop pooping.
  • Be prepared to return to a soiled home if you are keeping your Dog home alone for more than 4 hours as separation anxiety is quite common among home-alone dogs.
  • Accidents will happen. It is unusual for a trained adult Dog to work against its house training. But medical problems or health disorders may lead to sudden accidents.
  • Many dogs mark their territory. These can be a leg of a table or a particular wall. Intact male and female dogs mark their territories by urinating. Use deodorizers to spray on the places where your Dog has marked.
  • If you are patient and are ready to accept that house training a dog takes time, even months sometimes, you will end up having a good housetrained Dog.

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Now we will move on to how to potty train puppies and adult dogs.

Potty Training A Puppy:

Irrespective of breeds, housetraining a puppy is considered to be one of the biggest challenges by dog owners.

If you think housetraining your puppy simply involves a steady supply of old newspapers, then think again.

A puppy does not develop full control over its bladder until it is over 4 or 5 months old.

Since they are growing and developing rapidly at this time, puppies eat more, burn more calories, and need to eliminate more frequently than an adult Dog.

After each nap, meal, drink, or play, take your puppy to his designated area (indoors or outdoors, wherever you have decided) and stay there until it eliminates.

Then bring him to his crate.

Repeat this situation every day until he has developed a habit out of it.

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Potty Training An Adult Dog:

The best way to housetrain an adult Dog is to begin all over again.

Observe him very closely. Maybe even maintain a diary of where he goes and when. Whether he is pooping when you are home or only when you are outside; whether you can time yourself to be home when he feels the need to go outside.

You can try dog crates, but be careful to introduce him gradually to them.

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Remember, commitment, consistency and intelligent use of positive reinforcement will make you the owner of a perfectly housetrained Dog. Don’t expect miracles. You will only be disappointed.

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